Nungwi and Kendwa: Zanzibar's northern tip

Where Nungwi and Kendwa are

Nungwi, also called Ras Nungwi, is a large village at the northern tip of Unguja, Zanzibar's main island, about 56 km from Stone Town. A lighthouse marks the point. The beach curves around the tip: west Nungwi is lined with hotels and bars, while the east side, facing the reef, is quieter.

Kendwa lies about 3 km south-west along the same coast. It has a single long, wide beach and a more spread-out feel. Transfers from the airport take about 1 h 15 to 1 h 30; see airport transfers, and check the visa and insurance rules before you fly.

Nungwi beach and Kendwa beach: swimming and sunsets

Elsewhere on Zanzibar the sea can retreat hundreds of metres at low tide. On the west side of Nungwi and at Kendwa it pulls back only a short way, so you can swim at almost any hour. That makes them the easiest choice for families and for anyone who wants a swim before breakfast without checking a tide table. On the east side of Nungwi the reef is exposed at low tide, so reef shoes help there.

Both beaches face west, and the sunset in Kendwa is a daily event, with crowds gathering on the sand and dhows sailing past. Our guide to Zanzibar's beaches compares the north with the other coasts.

Nungwi village: dhow builders and turtles

Nungwi was a fishing and dhow-building village long before tourism arrived, and the boatyard on the beach is still working: shipwrights shape planks into ocean-going dhows by hand. You can watch, but keep a respectful distance, ask before taking photos and dress modestly when you walk through the village.

Near the lighthouse, the Mnarani turtle aquarium is a natural tidal pool where a community project, started in 1993, keeps sea turtles caught in fishing nets and raises hatchlings for release. Baraka Natural Aquarium is a similar pool in the village. The welfare is not independently checked, and visits often include feeding the turtles or swimming with them in the enclosed pool. If you go, watch rather than touch or feed, and do not visit expecting a sanctuary.

Boat trips from the north

Beach operators run snorkelling trips to the reefs around Tumbatu, the island off the north-west coast, plus sunset dhow cruises and dive trips. The famous Mnemba reef lies off the north-east coast; trips from Nungwi involve a longer boat ride, and most leave from Matemwe or Muyuni. Compare Mnemba and dolphin trips.

Choose operators with life jackets for everyone and a clear price. On dolphin trips, boats should keep their distance and never chase or encircle the animals.

The Kendwa Rocks full moon party

Kendwa's best-known night out is the full moon party at Kendwa Rocks, which the hotel says began in 1996. It still runs every month on a night close to the full moon, usually a Saturday, with DJs, live music and fire shows on the beach until the early hours. Dates and tickets are published on the official site, and non-guests pay an entrance fee.

If you are not going, it matters anyway: music carries along the beach, so check the date before you book a room nearby. Over New Year, Kendwa's beach clubs also usually hold New Year's Eve parties; our guide to Christmas and New Year in Zanzibar covers where to celebrate.

Walking between Nungwi and Kendwa

At low tide you can walk along the sand between Nungwi and Kendwa in about 30 to 45 minutes. At high tide a rocky stretch between them is cut off by the sea, and the inland road is hot, dusty and shared with traffic. Check the tide before setting out, and take a taxi or ask a boatman for the short ride if the water is up.

The downsides

Nungwi is the most developed area of the island: hotel capacity more than doubled between 2008 and 2013 and has kept growing. In the high season, July to September and around Christmas, the west beach is crowded, and beach sellers are persistent; a polite no is enough. Prices for food and drinks are higher than in the villages, and some hotels and bars play loud music late.

If you prefer quiet lagoons and village life, look at Paje and Jambiani instead, or split your stay with Stone Town. Check the best time to visit, and see all areas in places to visit.